Series: The Art of Couture
Stéphane Rolland’s Spring 2025 Couture collection was a masterful blend of artistry, humanitarianism, and history. The inspiration behind this strike stemmed from a collaboration with the Fondation des Hôpitaux, aimed at supporting teenagers at risk. Half the tickets to Rolland's show at the Salle Pleyel were sold to the public, with the proceeds benefiting the foundation. Since September 2024, Rolland and his business partner, Pierre Martinez, organized workshops for a group of girls aged 13 to 18, providing them with a glimpse into the transformative world of fashion and art.
"We tried to open their eyes and see life differently", Rolland explained. To celebrate this initiative, the designer chose a godmother for the collection - the legendary Josephine Baker - whose spirit of peace, unity, and respect echoed throughout the show.
A Tribute to Josephine Baker and Brancusi
The collection drew inspiration not only from Baker, the American-born French dancer, singer, and activist, but also from the sculptural works of Constantin Brancusi. Baker’s voice and recordings served as a poignant soundtrack for the runway, reinforcing her powerful legacy. Known for adopting 12 children of different nationalities, whom she called her “Rainbow Tribe,” Baker’s humanitarian vision aligned perfectly with Rolland’s message of unity and hope.
Meanwhile, Brancusi’s minimalist and modernist sculptures inspired the highly structured and geometric elements in the collection. Rolland’s sculptural dresses and jumpsuits featured square shoulders, dramatic draping, and clean, architectural lines. Presented in a neutral palette of black, ivory, white, brown, and silver, the designs captured both the fluidity of movement and the solidity of form—a harmonious balance between Baker’s dynamism and Brancusi’s timeless artistry.
“Josephine was a great dancer, and the way I designed and cut my dresses is all about movement,” Rolland remarked.
Details of Elegance and Innovation
Rolland’s craftsmanship shone through in every detail. A series of minimalist black ensembles, including a velvet and black gazar draped jacket paired with a satin crepe sarong skirt, exuded understated sophistication. Another standout piece was a long brown gauze tunic overlaid with ebony organza and embellished with oud and crystal.
Feathers were incorporated with high sophistication, avoiding cabaret clichés. One remarkable white dress was adorned with organza leaves and ivory feather fringes, adding an ethereal quality to the collection. Even the jewelry line complemented the theme, with bracelets, rings, and sautoirs set with synthetic diamonds or zirconium squares, reinforcing the geometric aesthetic.
Hairstyling became an extension of the collection’s theme. Models’ sculptural updos, created by Björn Axén and Johan Hellström, echoed the futuristic and cross-cultural appeal of Rolland’s designs. These hairpieces modernized Josephine Baker’s iconic headpieces, creating a look that was both avant-garde and timeless.
For me, the connection between Rolland’s collection and Constantin Brancusi’s art holds a deeply personal significance. As a Romanian, I take immense pride in Brancusi’s legacy as one of the greatest sculptors of all time. It was an extraordinary surprise to discover that Rolland, my favorite designer, drew inspiration from Brancusi for this collection.
Craiova, my birthplace, is home to one of the largest collections of Brancusi’s works in its museum. Moreover, his monumental creations—The Endless Column, The Table of Silence, and The Gate of the Kiss—are located in Târgu Jiu, just 100 kilometers from Craiova. These masterpieces, rooted in Romanian culture and history, are a testament to Brancusi’s genius and his ability to transcend time and geography.
Seeing Rolland’s visionary designs pay homage to Brancusi’s artistry felt like a beautiful convergence of my heritage and the universal language of creativity. It underscores the profound impact that art and fashion can have in bridging cultures and celebrating shared human experiences.
Beyond the artistry, this collection was a testament to Rolland’s commitment to making a difference. The proceeds from ticket sales and the workshops for young girls highlighted the transformative power of fashion as a force for good. Rolland’s hope that other couture houses will follow his lead reflects a vision of an industry that is not only creative but also compassionate.
With this collection, Stéphane Rolland once again proved that haute couture is not just about exquisite craftsmanship but also about storytelling, innovation, and humanity. This season’s designs, inspired by Josephine Baker and Constantin Brancusi, will undoubtedly leave an indelible mark on the world of fashion—and in the hearts of all who witnessed it.
