Series: Fashion Thoughts
Maria Grazia Chiuri’s latest haute couture collection for Dior transported onlookers into a world of historic silhouettes and unapologetic romanticism, proving once again that she is a master at blending tradition with modernity.
Currently, two of Chiuri’s designs are on display at the Louvre as part of its inaugural fashion exhibition. While many might see this as a nod to her enduring legacy, Chiuri approaches honor with characteristic nonchalance. “I was more interested in the tapestry that was around”, she said with a laugh. “My idea is more to enjoy the moment. I don’t care about the future”.
A Celebration of History and Femininity
Chiuri’s fascination with the past is unmistakable. Her spring haute couture collection drew inspiration from her ongoing deep dives into fashion history and a recent Surrealist art exhibition at the Pompidou Center in Paris. On her mood board were works by Leonor Fini and Dorothea Tanning, alongside references to the whimsical world of Alice in Wonderland.
Historical exploration manifested in a parade of diaphanous corsets, voluminous crinolines, and structured tailcoats. Wraparound panels embroidered with botanical illustrations by Indian artist Rithika Merchant adorned hoop skirts dripping with lace and floral embroidery. While these details added layers of intrigue, the collection’s true essence lay in its playful reinterpretation of silhouettes and proportions.
The collection paid homage to the house’s storied heritage, with nods to Christian Dior’s Cigale design and Yves Saint Laurent’s 1958 Trapeze line. Chiuri presented a black lampshade dress sparkling with jet beads, a beige faille swing coat, and a black taffeta baby doll dress. Yet it was her deep dive into rococo style – think draped pouf skirts, puffed sleeves, and mini – crinis – that made this her most unabashedly romantic collection to date.
The Art of Couture
For Chiuri, couture is about more than the finished product. It’s about artistry and teamwork behind the scenes. “What we want to celebrate is the process of couture work, and that is also the part that I enjoy most”, she explained. “It’s sometimes more emotional. Where we are in the process, it’s like all the team is playing together. We are playing the game of couture. After, when it’s done, your game is finished, so in some way you are just a little bit sad”.
This commitment to craftsmanship was evident in her use of unconventional materials, such as raffia, straw, and horsehair ribbons embroidered onto tulle dresses, and sheer corsets paired with cage – like skirts that revealed the inner workings of couture garments.
Creativity as a Shield
As the fashion world churns with rapid changes in creative leadership, Chiuri remains steadfast, focusing on her work to shield herself from external pressures. “If you enjoy what you do, what’s happening around you doesn’t touch you”, she said. “You protect yourself with the creativity, because you are so focused and enjoying what you do that you don’t think about what’s happening around. It’s like when a child plays”.
Already thinking ahead to her next ready-to-wear collection in March, Chiuri embodies her philosophy of seizing the day. “We’re all just passing through. I want to live now”, she declared.
Maria Grazia Chiuri’s latest collection is not just a showcase of exquisite design but a testament to the joy of creation and the power of living in the moment. With her unparalleled ability to weave history and imagination into contemporary couture, Chiuri continues to captivate and inspire.
